Landing in the middle of thirty mph onshore winds and driving rain isn’t the ideal way to start a surf trip. With a nor’easter spinning not too far offshore of North Carolina, the Outer Banks didn’t show the well-groomed sandbars under sunny skies that I’d hoped for. Instead, gallons of water hurtled down on us and puddles covered entire road sections, a drastic difference than the California Indian summer I’d left behind.

This is where surfing started for me, a short drive north to the beaches of Duck and Corolla. I fell in love with the ocean, spending part of every summer there, bodysurfing and boogie boarding and trying to clamber up to my feet on those boogie boards, with a modicum of success when I still weighed 100 pounds or so. Finally in my late teens, with a rented NSP funboard in tow, I paddled out for the first time, and awkwardly attempted to sit on the board before getting tossed over the falls on even the smallest waves. I still remember every second of that first real drop, a late slide down the face of a crumbly, two foot close out. I changed my entire life because of that five second wave, eventually moving across the country and throwing myself headlong into this addiction.

Frothing and frothy, none of these guys seemed to let the lingering onshores screw up any chances.

This was my first return trip to the Outer Banks since I started surfing daily, and I had dreams of its potential. With barrier islands, I knew the shifting sands could pop up perfect sandbars at any given location at any given time, exposed by the right tide and swallowed whole by the wrong one.

A sand dune runs much of the length of the beach of the Banks, which blocks some of the constant waves and weather that hurtle from the Atlantic towards all things man-made. This dune curtains off your view of the surf til you get just over it, when it reveals your options at any given access point. What a sight it is when you crest the top of that lump of sand to find yourself staring down waves, often with only a few other souls in sight.

When you peek over the sandbar and see this, no amount of barbecue in the world can slow you down.